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This marks pumpkin season and most anticipated season, not least for all the curries and other hearty meals of fall. This Rajasthani stir-fry is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chili and jaggery gives it a wonderful flavor harmony. This layered rice dish, meanwhile, is packed with aromatic spices, basmati and ghee, which give so much more flavour to the strata of grains and produce.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

National curry week begins around early October, so what better way to mark the occasion than with a flavorful, warming, all-in-one-pot biryani? For convenience, make the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and assemble everything on the day you want to serve.

Prep 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Serves 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, slit open lengthways
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or kashmiri chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or use water
Salt, to taste
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

Rice preparation
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, steeped in warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, to serve

First make the gravy. Heat the ghee in a large, thick-bottomed pot on a medium heat, add the cumin, bay leaves and cloves, and fry for a brief moment. Stir in the onion slices and sauté, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. When the onions start to brown, transfer half of them to a separate dish and set aside (you'll use them later during the assembly).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, cook for a brief period, then stir in the tomato paste, chili powder, turmeric powder and coriander powder, and fry for a short while. Reduce to a low heat, stir in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Mix in the pumpkin pieces and mushrooms, toss to cover in the spices, then cook for several minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and add salt to taste. Bring to a boil, then turn down the temperature, cover and cook gently for about twenty minutes, mixing midway to ensure nothing's stuck to the bottom of the pot. Garnish with fresh cilantro, then take off the heat.

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Wash the basmati, then place it in a saucepan with a quart of water and the bay, cardamom and seasoning. Heat to boiling, cook for 10-12 minutes, until three-quarters cooked, then drain.

To build the layered dish, put a spoonful of warmed ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a tight-fitting lid. Spoon half the vegetable curry, then top that with some the cooked grains. Sprinkle a portion the saffron infusion, ginger strips, mint leaves, ground cardamom and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Top with the rest of curry mixture, then spoon on the remaining rice. Finish with the remaining clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the center rack of the oven for 15-17 minutes, so the aromas infuse the grains. Take out of the oven, allow to stand, still covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with raita and salad.

Rajasthani Achari Kaddu (Squash with Spice Blend Sauté)

The Indian word "achari" refers to flavouring a dish using preserving spices, and the mix contains mustard seeds, fennel, fenugreek, cumin seeds, hing and nigella, but their use extends beyond in pickles. The blend also features in various types of spiced dishes and stir-fries, like this recipe.

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Yields 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cut into bite-sized pieces
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, as needed
1 tbsp jaggery, or substitute with brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a spice grinder, roughly grind, then reserve. Heat the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a medium heat. Introduce the ground spices and the hing, and fry, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, fry for a short while, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, tossing, for several additional minutes.

Add a small amount water to the pot, season with seasoning to taste and bring to a boil. Place lid, turn down the flame, and leave to cook for 20 minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, breaking up chunks a little, then incorporate the dried mango, mix thoroughly and serve warm with chapatis or naan.